No Starter Button

[Trent]

Hiya,

Nothing happens when you push the starter button. (M620ie)

The workshop manual says that this is controlled by the ECU. IE The ECU needs to detect the sidestand up, Neutral light on, kill switch on etc.

I've checked all the fuses, switches, buttons, connections etc.
It appears that everything is OK, but the start button still doesn't work. I've tried a new R/H switch assembly as well.

The bike otherwise seems normal. All lights work, clocks / idiot lights do the pretest thing when the key is switched on etc etc.

Anyone have any ideas? Could the ECU have packed up?

Cheers
Trent

[slob]

Hiya,

Nothing happens when you push the starter button. (M620ie)

The workshop manual says that this is controlled by the ECU. IE The ECU needs to detect the sidestand up, Neutral light on, kill switch on etc.

I've checked all the fuses, switches, buttons, connections etc.
It appears that everything is OK, but the start button still doesn't work. I've tried a new R/H switch assembly as well.

The bike otherwise seems normal. All lights work, clocks / idiot lights do the pretest thing when the key is switched on etc etc.

Anyone have any ideas? Could the ECU have packed up?

Cheers
Trent

Also the imobiliser, you need to hit the start button within 2 minutes of switch on. I have had my imobiliser come into action after the bike got a good soaking(condensation still in the clocks). What part of London are you in?

[Bodybag]

I'm having exactly the same problem with mine. He's been stood for a while but the battery is OK. Any clues?

[sadbiker]

Have you a second key. Give that a try just in case the transponder in the key has buggered up.

[Trent]

I know about the immobiliser kicking in... This problems happens as soon as you switch the key on.

Like BodyBag, this bike has been sitting for a while (not sure how long.. Maybe 1 - 2 years)

Unfortunately I don't have a second key... I don't even have the red key! :eek:

I've just fitted a second hand ECU / clock / ignition switch from PayNeps Demodue bike. His bike ran OK with the clocks etc, so no reason why mine shouldn't.

Someone suggested the Starter Relay could be shafted... I'll swap it out tonight and try again.

I'm in South East London near Peckham, but the bike is in my mates Garage in Greenwich...

Cheers
Trent

[emily's driver]

Hiya,

Nothing happens when you push the starter button. (M620ie)

The workshop manual says that this is controlled by the ECU. IE The ECU needs to detect the sidestand up, Neutral light on, kill switch on etc.

I've checked all the fuses, switches, buttons, connections etc.
It appears that everything is OK, but the start button still doesn't work. I've tried a new R/H switch assembly as well.

The bike otherwise seems normal. All lights work, clocks / idiot lights do the pretest thing when the key is switched on etc etc.

Anyone have any ideas? Could the ECU have packed up?

Cheers
Trent

Have a look at the connection to your starter motor relay and also the connection to the starter motor itself. If you cant hear a click when you press the button and you are sure the battery and all other connections are OK, it's possible there is no current getting to either or a bad earth could be the cause. Just my halfpenny's worth you understand.

[slob]

Greenwich is just across the river from Rosso Corse @ Bow. Give Ray a call on 020 7780 9764 he may be able to give you some good advice, if not he has all the diagnostic kit and about 1/4 century of Ducati experience.

[bod]

Side stand switch faulty?

opperate the side stand a couple of times or bypass it.

Have you got power to the solenoid/starter motor/do you have axcess to a testlamp or multimeter,I could talk you through it if you have.

[Trent]

OK.. I tested the starter solenoid which seems to work OK. All connections are OK. There's power to the solenoid.

The fuel pump works when you turn the key on.

The side stand and Kill switches are working OK.

I've tested all the switches for continuity with a multimeter. everything seems OK. (I used to be a motorbike mechanic, so know my around a bike pretty well...)

I'll give Rosso Corse a call and pick their brains...

[singletrack]

This may be totally wrong but did I not read that you can't change over a second hand ECU without the original red keys?

[squiffything]

I'm not technically minded and i have absolutely no knowledge of what you guys are on about when you get into the engines and electrics and stuff but I have had a problem on mine which sounds very familiar. The bike stood over winter went back to it with nothing happening thought to myself the battery's dead so purchased a optimate charger charged it up things happened on the bike lights flashed etc but no fire in the hold.

Had a word with the Ducati guys down in Colchester and was informed that whilst the battery was taking a charge it was not holding the same. replaced the battery and away she went. Not had a problem since. There was enough in the battery to set the lights on but not enough to fire the engine up.

[sadbiker]

(I used to be a motorbike mechanic, so know my around a bike pretty well...)



And still can't fix it... What chance have the rest of us.

[kaysee]

I would check the battery, Pennys monster was showing similar symptoms yesterday, turn on ignition, needles move OK fuel pump works, but nothing on the button, check kill switch that was ok, sidestand switch has been bypassed so that was not the fault. The battery had died, attached a jump/booster and the monster roared into life.

Penny does think that the imobiliser light may have been acting a bit funny when turning the ignition on but cant remember, but now the battery is charged the imobilser light is fine.

[Bruza]

Charge or Change Battery.

Mine did this a couple of times when the battery is on the way out. An engineer / AA man who sorted me out said that the Duc's need as much battery to start them as possible... something like if the battery is giving 11.8 volts it will start, 11.6 or 11.7 and it will not even register.

As you guys have said that they bikes have been standing.... might be the cheapest and quickest Duc Fix in history!

[sambo]

if its any use guys i know certain immobilisers cut out the starter/dont allows the bike to start if the battery voltage drops to low dont know for certain if this function is on your ecu but ive been caught out on this before trying to start a car that ive remapped.

[gary tompkins]

Check you are actually getting 12volts at the 2 pin plug on the starter solenoid when button is pressed. I had a couple of wires break in the loom feeding from the button near the headstock, and it killed the power to the solenoid.

If you short the main terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, and the starter spins over it could be a duff solenoid or no voltage from button.

[Trent]

Thanks for all the tips so far...

I've now checked and rechecked everything. Power is going everywhere, solenoid, relays and switches are all fine.

The battery could be an issue... I've had it on charge for a few days, but haven't actually checked the voltage. The headlight etc seemed bright enough and if put a jumper on the starter solenoid, the engine turns over OK, so didn't think it would be a problem.

I'll bang another battery in it and see what happens...

[bod]

' if put a jumper on the starter solenoid, the engine turns over OK,'

That rules out the starter and battery then, I presume by a jumper you meen you have bridged the two 13mm nuts that go to the solenoid (thick wires going to them)If so your problem lies with the part that 'energises' the starter solenoid.

You should have two smaller wires going to the same solenoid one should be to a permanet GOOD earth, and the other should only show battery voltage 12.5 volts when the starter button is pressed,let me know what you have and I can point you in the next step of diagnosis.

[slob]

That rules out the starter and battery then,
Not quite, if the immobiliser is very sensitive to low battery, it MAY 'kill' the ECU even though there is enough juice to turn the engine over.

Trent, if you haven't sorted this by next week gimme a shout after the weekend(I'm going to Cadwell first thing tomorrow) and I'll hop over the river with my multimeter etc. and we can try the battery off my 620.

[dlloyduk]

Ariel/Signal wire?
This sounds like a problem I had off and on for the first few months I had mine, it turned out to be a damaged wire near the headstock. the wire was for the small sensor in the plastic ignition switch cover. It goes to a very small two pin conector near the base of the headstock.

Either that or the key is knackered?

[Buzz]

Do you have a relay in the side stand switch circuit? Worth checking/replacing/bypassing - they go wrong (intermittently) regularly!

[Sim]

I've just had my 2002 750 ie dark into a dealership to have the sidestand switch by-passed because the guy I bought it off experienced this 'no start switch' problem. He was convinced it was a dodgy side stand switch. Although I'm very happy with my £26 worth of re-wiring (the engine now runs on the sidestand but will still cut if you put it in gear - clever re-wiring across the neutral switch rather than the kill switch) it HASN'T stopped the intermittent starter switch problem.
BUT - replace the switch unit? I'm sure it's not that because when the bike is warm after a run it'll re start every single time.
THEREFORE...I'm going with Bruza on this. It's gotta be battery. That would explain its reliabily when it's just had a run but its unreliability when it's been standing for a while. I'm gonna change the batt and see if that solves it.

[Trent]

I called the guys at Rosso Corsa.
They reckon it's a fairly common problem and is usually a broken wire (Kill switch) up near the headstock.

I'll put that theory to the test this weekend... Fingers Xed...

[Buzz]

CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE A RELAY IN THE SIDE STAND SWITCH CIRCUIT!

Sorry for shouting, but it took me weeks, a new starter solenoid, a new side stand switch, and a new battery to diagnose the little b*gger was playing up!

Check out this thread:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=17823&highlight=side+stand+relay

[Sim]

Just to conclude my experience with intermittant starter switch, it WAS the battery. Just as had been suggested earlier in this thread, the old batt was giving enough power to appear full (lights etc all worked) but not quite enough to trigger the starter motor, at least not every time - hense it sometimes fired first press, but often wouldn't. Bruza's 'low voltage' theory was right. New batt has solved it - switch works every time now.
Would definately recommend rewiring sidestand switch across neutral switch too. So much better to be able to run engine on sidestand and still have the safety of engine cutting if you put it in gear with the stand down.