DIY service checklist

[russ77]

Hello all,

It's time I pampered my 750 a bit. It's just past 6000 miles, the MOT is due at the start of June and summer is just round the corner.

I bought the bike last summer and the vendor told me she'd had the 6000 mile service done early but hadn't had the book stamped(...). Apparently this was over two years ago, so I know I should have it done soon.

Is it really worth having the work done professionally considering the bike is now six years old and I've no plans to sell it in the near future? I'm quite capable of doing the work myself and would rather not spend £300 on something I could do myself.

So I reckon the parts I'll need are as follows:
Belts
Oil, crush washer and filter
Plugs and HT leads
Brake and clutch lines, fluid (and pads?)
Feeler gauges for checking valve clearances
Grease for bearings

Any advice on bits I've missed? Where's the best place to buy the parts from? I'm tired of seeing the dollar signs in dealers' eyes. I'm in West London if that helps.

I've got the Haynes manual somewhere but of course can't find it right when I need it. Now I've just got to pray for a few hours of sunshine. I might even give it a clean.

Thanks in advance
T..

[Zimbo]

That should cover all the important bits, personally I wouldn't bother renewing the HT leads though!

[Ade]

Stuart "Spareshack" is in West Drayton Middlesex, speak to him by phone cos if you go there you will spend that 300 and not even buy your belts.

Ade

[Rockhopper]

My experince tells me to never believe a single thing a seller tells you so in this case assume that the bike has never been serviced before.
Do the oil, filter, strainer (replace both crush washers), air filter, spark plugs, belts, check valve clearances and re shim as required (clearances are very important) then if you want to go further change the fork oil and both lots of brake fluid.
There are not many bearings you can actually grease really, the headset is one but its a lot of work to get to. HT leads, no. Pads, only if they are worn. Brake lines, ditto although braided do look nice but make no difference if the rubber lines are in good condition.

[russ77]

Thanks for all the advice. The bike has braided lines already, which suggests some work has been done at some point.

I'll give Spareshack a ring tomorrow as I'm out that way on Thursday so maybe I could collect if he keeps items in stock. I've been round there once before and you're right, it's like a Toys R Us for grown up nerds with credit cards like me. I only found out today that it's a bank holiday weekend so I smell opportunity...

I fitted a K&N air filter a few months back so shouldn't have to replace that. I was worried about replacing the fork oil after last time I stripped a set of forks it took me two days of head scratching to get them back together. I guess simply changing the oil should be within my limited capabilities.

Wish me luck and thanks again,

T

[Rockhopper]

Unfortunatly you need to strip upside downers to change the fork oil...

[russ77]

Unfortunatly you need to strip upside downers to change the fork oil...

Rats. I'll leave that for later then, when the weather isn't so tempting. Seals are OK and action is plush anyway.

It passed the MOT fine a couple of weeks ago but I got an advisory note on the chain. Apparently it's worn, but not conventially. The links are "sticking" said the mechanic. I told them I'd not been using it much lately and he told me off! Should be OK if I just lube it and ride it some more. That's the kind of maintenance I can cope with.

So all the parts for the service are sitting in the front room now, but this sunshine... Can't crawl about on a dirty floor when I could be out posing! I guess the prospect of snapped cambelt should spur me on. Finally found the Haynes manual too.

Thanks for the help..

[MotoNik]

Unfortunatly you need to strip upside downers to change the fork oil...

Not as bad as it sounds - slacken the fork tops and then drop the forks out. Remove the fork tops and leave them to drain upside down overnight (if you can be bothered to leave them that long - not necessary if you're pushed for time).

Re-fit the forks and leave the tops off, measure out the required amont to re-fill (your Haynes will tell you), and pour in the top. Re-fit the fork tops and it's job done - you can probably do it in an hour.

cheers,

Nik

[Rockhopper]

I don't think you'll get all the oil out like that though so you'd be better off measureing the oil level from the the top of the leg rather then measuring the quantity you are putting in.

[MotoNik]

I don't think you'll get all the oil out like that though so you'd be better off measureing the oil level from the the top of the leg rather then measuring the quantity you are putting in.

I left them to drain overnight, and flushed them out with penetrating spray, and gave them a good pump up and down (ooh-er Mrs), so I'm pretty sure all the oil was out.

Just don't do what I did and put too much oil back in. These feel a bit hard, thought I......

cheers,

Nik

[gary tompkins]

...It passed the MOT fine a couple of weeks ago but I got an advisory note on the chain. Apparently it's worn, but not conventially. The links are "sticking" said the mechanic. I told them I'd not been using it much lately and he told me off! Should be OK if I just lube it and ride it some more. That's the kind of maintenance I can cope with...

If the chains in bad enough condition to have links partially seized I would replace it. Shouldn't cost more than £100 tops for a good quality chain/sprocket set, which compared the damage potential of a snapped chain is peanuts TBH. Just ask Scotty what a snapped chain at Mallory on his S4 set him back! :eyepopping:

I bought a chain splitter/rivetter tool for £30 six years ago, and have swapped loads of chains using it. It's more than paid for itself since in money I've saved on service centre labour charges