cam belt, 98 on models

[griffo]

Any advice on replacing belts on 03 750 i.e. welcome,
(I am hoping to do basic maintenance having had an old triumph 650 for 20 years.)
In new Haynes manual the advice on tensioning belts for 98-on bikes suggests taking it to a dealer, pre 98 can use a spring balance. Is it o.k. to use 5 & 6 mm allen key method for newer bikes?
Also why do newer bikes have the cam bolts loosened and a locating screw put in while at top dead centre? Is this important? Does top dead centre have to be accurate or is it just a guide before aligning marks? Do vertical cylinder cams have to be loosened?
Cheers in advance.
Griff

[Pedro]

Have a look on here

http://www.buschandbusch.com/ducatisuite/home.html

Should help

Ped

[griffo]

Further checking in servive booklet gives schedule of replacing belts every 20,000km, no mention of 2 years? (except during warranty period where it talks about coupons up until 60,000km etc) I've read all the advice about replacing every 2 years but is this applicable on newer models?

thanks,
Griff

[griffo]

just change this reply

[griffo]

I've checked this out previously it doesn't mention newer models and link to changing belts no longer goes anywhere.

thanks anyhow

[CK & AK]

1. remove the little lock screws in the cam belt cover.
2. line up the mark on the crank case to the bottom cam pulley
3. screw a longer bolt into the hole you have just taken the plug out of (this locks the cams so they cant move)
4. Loosen the belt tensioner with a 6mm allen key
5. remove both belts
6. replace with new
7. use a 5mm allen key under the jockey wheel of the cam belt & adjust tensioner up so that the 5mm key is tight on the belt
8. remove 5mm key after tightening both belts
9. remove long bolt out that is locking cams
10. refit lock screws.
11. wind engine over by hand to check belts are locating properly a full 360 degrees.
12. recheck tension with 5mm allen key

Must be done every 2 years, or 12,000 miles - whichever comes first.
I do our race bikes every year, the road bikes about every 18 months to 2 years.

Alan

[Zimbo]

Definately change them at least every two years. They get a much harder life than car cambelts as the engines are lumpier and run at much higher rpm, and the consequences of a broken belt you don't even want to think about!!! For the sake of about £15 a year, get them changed! Many also recommend changing them as a matter of course on a bike that's been sat for more than a couple of months without being turned over.
Changing them is easy, about a half hour job. Just follow the Ducatisuite guide, it's fairly straightforward.

[bod]

Mine are due too (overdue) on my 04 plate 620 so ill be having a little tinker myself.
Also couldn't find the guide on ducatisuite and would like to be sure of belt tension measurments,are 750's different to 620's....?

[CK & AK]

Also couldn't find the guide on ducatisuite and would like to be sure of belt tension measurments,are 750's different to 620's....?

basically all the same.
I've worked on (and own or have owned) 583's, 620's, 750ie, 900ie & 1000sie at the mo, and have done all of them myself.
All the same belt tension and all 4 present bikes have done mileage since the beginning of the year

Alan

[bod]

Cheers Alan looks like a job for the weekend...if it's not sunny;)

[griffo]

Well I've started, not going to rush it but got the covers off tonight, that wasn't easy, they don't allow much jiggling space, even after taking off the oil cooler. I think I'll practice putting them back before I've got the new belts on.
It's clearer now what to do next but can I ignore Haynes; "slacken the pulley bolts", I dont really want to disturb them, is this for fine tuning?
Also should I just grind a couple of screws down and use to lock the pulley flange?
I haven't bothered with Haynes suggesting to find T.D.C. as the marks were all nearly lined up when I took the covers off so I guess thats the important bit.

Thanks for quick replies yesterday, Haynes manual is not always as clear as it could be.

Griff

[gary tompkins]

1. remove the little lock screws in the cam belt cover.
2. line up the mark on the crank case to the bottom cam pulley
3. screw a longer bolt into the hole you have just taken the plug out of (this locks the cams so they cant move)
4. Loosen the belt tensioner with a 6mm allen key
5. remove both belts
6. replace with new
7. use a 5mm allen key under the jockey wheel of the cam belt & adjust tensioner up so that the 5mm key is tight on the belt
8. remove 5mm key after tightening both belts
9. remove long bolt out that is locking cams
10. refit lock screws.
11. wind engine over by hand to check belts are locating properly a full 360 degrees.
12. recheck tension with 5mm allen key....

Alan

Did the belts on the trike on Saturday and was doing fine until I got to number 4 on the list. As I went to loosen the rear tensioners pivot bolt (allen screw) it began to round off. Managed to get it to shift after a few hard whacks from a hammer on the end of the socket bar, but it was touch & go as the hex was really chewed up.

I've also had this happen on the 600 before now, and it's mainly thanks to the monkey metal fasteners the factory still insist on using :grump: I have replaced both these c(r)ap screws with hex 8mm bolts, which I cut down to the right length. At least I can use a pukka 13mm hex socket on the buggers in future!

Oh - and the belt covers are a real bitch to get off/on, but I found pushing the wiring loom & cooler hose out of the way as far as possible does help.

[griffo]

Well I've started, not going to rush it but got the covers off, that wasn't easy, they don't allow much jiggling space, even after taking off the oil cooler. I think I'll practice putting them back before I've got the new belts on.
It's clearer now what to do next but can I ignore Haynes; "slacken the pulley bolts", I dont really want to disturb them, is this for fine tuning?
Also should I just grind a couple of screws down and use to lock the pulley flange?
I haven't bothered with Haynes suggesting to find T.D.C. as the marks were all nearly lined up when I took the covers off so I guess thats the important bit.

Thanks for quick replies, Haynes manual is not always as clear as it could be.

Griff