Dialing in the Cams

[Shauns4]

Anyone dialed in or had their cams dialed in? If so did it make a noticable difference?

[spacemonkey]

I trust you've read my thread answer to the 980cc kit?

There is two ways to do it from what I gather. One is to use adjustable cam sprockets, the other is simply to use staggered woodruff keys, which is the route I will be going when I get the heads off again for porting etc etc

[Shauns4]

I trust you've read my thread answer to the 980cc kit?

There is two ways to do it from what I gather. One is to use adjustable cam sprockets, the other is simply to use staggered woodruff keys, which is the route I will be going when I get the heads off again for porting etc etc

I hadn't but have now, the adjustable cam sprockets are expensive, stepped keys are cheap by comparison but obviously more fiddly and less accurate.


http://www.kaemna.de/cms_en/katalog.htm?&view=artikel&artikel=469

[Rockhopper]

Offset keys are usually available in 1 degree increments which is plenty good enough especially when the standard cams can be up to 6 degrees out.

Adjustable pullys are great if you are doing development work on the engine but i have heard of cases of the bolts sheering and the two halves of the sprocket coming apart.

[Shauns4]

Offset keys are usually available in 1 degree increments which is plenty good enough especially when the standard cams can be up to 6 degrees out.

Adjustable pullys are great if you are doing development work on the engine but i have heard of cases of the bolts sheering and the two halves of the sprocket coming apart.

The Ducati offset keys are available in 2 degree increments (for the S4), as the tolerance is +-3 degrees then you can get the timing timing within that from the available keys which I guess is good enough.

[Rockhopper]

Fair enough! Might be an idea to see how far out they are first as well. What bike is it?

[Shauns4]

Fair enough! Might be an idea to see how far out they are first as well. What bike is it?

I have decided to check them along with the TPS angle, just need to sort out a socket for the cam nuts in case new keys are needed and a timing degree disc, its an S4.

[CK & AK]

Degreeing the cams in, is not often a home job.

You will need some tools: Degree wheel and dial guage and a special probe to fit onto the closing rocker shim, which is quite (read very!) fiddly to get the probe onto the shim.

Also remember the cam belt drive sprocket is not crank speed, you need to use the degree wheel off the LH side of the engine - through the access hole - with a special tool to attach it to the crank (or make up the tool to do so).

Do you know what the cam timing should be - for both front & rear cylinders?
(I dont off hand for the S4)

If lucky and all goes according to plan, should take about 4 hours from start to finish.

Worth you calling Nelly @ Cornerspeed - he has all the tools for this job, and unless you are going to be doing this on a regular basis, you will save yourself quite a lot of money from purchasing tools. He also is very reasonable & knows what he is doing with ALL the full ducati range.

Good Luck

Alan

[Shauns4]

Degreeing the cams in, is not often a home job.

You will need some tools: Degree wheel and dial guage and a special probe to fit onto the closing rocker shim, which is quite (read very!) fiddly to get the probe onto the shim.


Alan


Alan,

Thanks for the comments and advice, here are my thoughts...

I have all the required measuring instruments apart from a timing disc and adpators specifically required for the said measuring instruments.

TDC will be measured by a vernier depth gauge through the plug hole, crank angle as you say, discs don't cost much, I could even draw one up if needs be.

True valve displacement will probably be difficult to measure without the ducati tool to ensure the dial gauge proble is in the same axis as the valve, however I intend to use the centre line method which doesn't require accurate displacement measurements, its does however require repeatable values in terms of opening and closing measurements, I can see some problems here as you say getting a good measuring point.

The cam nuts, I need to make a socket, locking the cam pulleys I have clutch locking tool that will do the job.

The stepped keys are mechanically a very poor design bodge (in my opinion) however the adjustable pullies are too expensive so a Ducati bodge job will have to do.

I like a challange and as usual prefer to do it myself, if i get it wrong then i can only boll*k myself.

Thanks

Shaun

[CK & AK]

Fair Comment Shaun - good luck

A:)

[Shauns4]

So made a start today by removing the cam pulleys to check the keys were in good condition. Totally confused with the keys that have been fitted at the factory as they don't match what the parts list says.

Both exhaust cams have 16 degreee maximum offset keys, intake no offset.

Timing now to check, hope the exhaust cams don't need more than 16 degrees!

[Shauns4]

Degreeing the cams in, is not often a home job.

You will need some tools: Degree wheel and dial guage and a special probe to fit onto the closing rocker shim, which is quite (read very!) fiddly to get the probe onto the shim.
Alan

So finally got round to doing this, as Alan said, getting measurements (repeatable) from the shims without the special probe is very difficult, especially the exhaust valves!

Measurements are as follows, all cam timing inside the factory tolerance (+/-3deg) but room for improvement, only plan to adjust the Vertical inlet by 2 degrees.

CENTRELINE
INLET EXH
Required 114.5 112
Measured
Vertical 111.5 112
Horizontal114 110