Clutch Slip

[scrapps]

went for quick run on monie 620 on sunday to give it a run as been standing for 3/4weeks all seemed fine even the sun came out, :) but on way home the clutch seemed to slip under load :grump: . could this be due to long time standing, does this sound like start of problems, and are the clutches adjustable.
sorry for lots of questions but hoped to go to bike show at ally pally to buy some new cans but cant afford both if new clutch needed. (the bikes done around 7500 miles, no track days yet)
any advise would be helpfull.

:cry:

[JMo]

How old is your bike?

I had problems with clutch slip on my 2002 model - both times it happened after a hot summer, and come september time, it would slip like a sod until the engine temp got to about 100°C... but the dealer could not find anything wrong with it... It was replaced twice, the second time they also fitted an extra plate that seemed to have cured the problem...

I know one or two other members have had similar problems with wet-clutch bikes of a similar age - maybe it was a bad batch of clutches?

You certainly shouldn't need a new clutch at 7500 miles unless you are a total stunt-monkey...

xxx

[scrapps]

cheers for the info jmo i will have to keep i eye on it for now, and get it looked at on next service. i am going to weekender and on track day so want to get sorted before then could wreck 1st track day if fails then :grump: .
are you the owner of smeegle the very shiney 620 ? if yes any more mods ect over the winter...
p.s. do ride hard but no stunt monkey keep wheels on ground if poss

[CK & AK]

It would worth taking the time to strip the clutch down tho, to check for worn or damaged plates.

AK had to replace Blufoots clutch plates twice on his 620, in the space of 15 months, cos the muppet was a little quick with it - particularly on one wheel.

First time at 7000miles (ish) he had some very worn plates, the 2nd time just over 9000 miles later, he had broken plates rattling around in there.

Easy to do, and doesnt take much time - and would give you peace of mind, knowing you have checked them out. Just make sure you put them back exactly the same way you have taken them off.

C

[scrapps]

cheers for info ck ak but i am not confident enouth to take the clutch out myself,:cry: might see if local bike shop can help as not got local ducati dealer.

[gary tompkins]

May be a red herring but some types of oils (mainly fully synthetic) can cause slip on wet clutch bikes due to anti friction additives.

My old 600's clutch slipped like a bitch until I ditched full synth oil and put semi synth back in.

[Scotty]

cheers for info ck ak but i am not confident enouth to take the clutch out myself,:cry: might see if local bike shop can help as not got local ducati dealer.

i think you would be suprised how easy it is (ive never done a wet clutch mind) a couple of magnets on sticks are good for fishing plates out of the basket

[scrapps]

Cheers for the info garry when bike last serviced they did say that the semi had been ditched for fully syn you might be on right track i could maybe try changing back (even i can change the oil and filter.) but would i need to flush the engine out to make sure all syn oil out before change back , and what oil is best to use if going back to semi ???

[Scotty]

oil change is best done after a ride so that the oil it hot/warm and hence less vicous put bike on paddock stand(s) so all the oil drains towards the sump plug empty oil all over drive scading yourself with the boiling oil and spend the rest of the day in A&E, leave to drain for a while and buy a new crush washer for the sump plug

errm im saying let it drain longer rather than a flush (too expensive in my book for minimal gain)

[scrapps]

Cheers scotty i will try draining while oil is warm but think might keep bare skin out of way:mad: and leave over night to drain fully. will prob opt for the shell oil that ducati recomend and see how it goes(then might try to look at clutch but not realy sure what to look for .) hope i can get away with the oil change :worried:

[JMo]

will prob opt for the shell oil that ducati recomend and see how it goes

The Shell oil they recommend is fully synthetic, and is what should be in there is the bike has been dealer serviced.

I use Putoline oil in my XR - they do a semi-synthetic and also a 'synthetic fortified' oil too... if you want to change from fully synthetic, I can recommend those...

xxx

[scrapps]

Cheers jmo bike not dealer serviced done by tag racing who used to own and i think did race monsters. will see what oil is available from local bike dealers and see how it goes ..

cheers scrapps xx

[Scotty]

Cheers jmo bike not dealer serviced done by tag racing who used to own and i think did race monsters. will see what oil is available from local bike dealers and see how it goes ..

cheers scrapps xx

you bought an x race bike ? oooooh , all them race starts and backing it into corners will have eaten the clutch ;)

[scrapps]

ooops no scotty i said people at tag used to own monsters and might of raced them, not raced mine it a ex demo bike from ducati dealer in ashford,
only used on road..(until ukmoc track day this year my first go at track riding)

[Fosse Foxfight]

JMos already put you on the right track anyway, Putoline do a fully synth with so called "revolutionary “pure bike” TECHNOMOTO additive system"" that is fully comaptible with clutch friction materials. Its Syntec 4+, available in a few weights as well.

[scrapps]

Cheers i will have to see if can locate a local supply:thumbsup: