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Toolong
22-05-2005, 10:10 PM
Can anyone please help? I have recently discovered an ignition problem with my M900 Dark 2000. When i put the key in the barrel and turn, i don't get any ignition lights or ignition, then if i repeat this, it eventually works and all is well. I thought i could live with this but it has now started cutting out when aproaching roundabouts, juctions etc. with the same symptoms, no ignition lights or ignition. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks :confused:

Tigerlily
22-05-2005, 11:03 PM
It could be something simple like a loose wire possibly? Have you tried switching the ignition on and then "jiggling" the wiring to see if any lights come on or anything?

A Yerbury
22-05-2005, 11:08 PM
As the lady says it sounds like a loose connection/short somewhere.
Alex

gary tompkins
23-05-2005, 12:02 AM
A fault with the ignition switch itself has also been know to cause this problem, especially on high mileage bikes that have spent a lot of thier time parked outdoors & not garaged. Water may have got down into the switch barrel, and a squirt of WD40 might be worth a go. Failing that my next check would be loose/corroded connections or breaks in the loom?

There's also a couple of relays in the feeds to the ignition and starter circuits, normally tucked up under the tank. These can go AWOL giving intermmitent starting and loss of electrics. Another thats worth a look & can cause similar problems is a naff sidestand cutout switch.

Starter Sprag
23-05-2005, 10:58 AM
Can anyone please help? I have recently discovered an ignition problem with my M900 Dark 2000. When i put the key in the barrel and turn, i don't get any ignition lights or ignition, then if i repeat this, it eventually works and all is well. I thought i could live with this but it has now started cutting out when aproaching roundabouts, juctions etc. with the same symptoms, no ignition lights or ignition. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks :confused:

Sit on the bike, sidestand up, kill-switch OFF, turn bars full lock LEFT,
Put kill-switch ON, try to start bike,

Now put kill-switch OFF again, turn bars full lock RIGHT, put kill-switch on again, try to start bike.

Now with sidestand UP, kill-switch ON, turn bars Left and Right, to see if power is lost at any time.

You may have one or more broken wires, inside the black sheath, around the headstock, leading up to the righthand switch-gear.

You will have to CUT into the SHEATH to expose the wiring fault

gary tompkins
23-05-2005, 09:18 PM
You may have one or more broken wires, inside the black sheath, around the headstock, leading up to the righthand switch-gear.

You will have to CUT into the SHEATH to expose the wiring fault

Oh yes - been there, fixed that and bought the soldering iron :rolleyes:, but at least I sussed the problem in the end. Several UKMOCers have also had this exact wiring fault since ;)

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=6100&highlight=starter+solenoid

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=6305&highlight=starter+solenoid

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=6373&highlight=starter+solenoid

Fosse Foxfight
24-05-2005, 11:01 AM
Oh yes - been there, fixed that and bought the soldering iron :rolleyes:, but at least I sussed the problem in the end. Several UKMOCers have also had this exact wiring fault since ;)

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=6100&highlight=starter+solenoid

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=6305&highlight=starter+solenoid

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=6373&highlight=starter+solenoid

The starter solenoid gives slightly different symptoms.......usually the ignition lights come on but the starter motor will not turn.....nor is any clicking heard. The most liklely candidate for this problem is the starter relay situated under the seat.....and usually the relay is originally yellow. There is a Hella replacement for about £5 part number:4RA 003 510-131.
The starter relay will often cack out after a journey or after filling with gas and then work again once cool. I'd change it as matter of course, its a good starting point and at least you know it aint the problem once you do it.....mine deteriorated over about a 3 month period and at times worked fine.
The wire breaks around the headstock....wet connections is all fine but very hit and miss...just change the starter relay.

ta ra me ducks

Sean

Didge
24-05-2005, 12:30 PM
Toolong, I had this problem a long time ago. It was the ignition/starter relay, which is the square plastic yellow thing under the seat. It just unplugs, and you plug in a new one.
Cost is about £5.00 or £6.00.

gary tompkins
24-05-2005, 06:35 PM
The starter solenoid gives slightly different symptoms.......usually the ignition lights come on but the starter motor will not turn.....nor is any clicking heard. The most liklely candidate for this problem is the starter relay situated under the seat.....and usually the relay is originally yellow. There is a Hella replacement for about £5 part number:4RA 003 510-131.
The starter relay will often cack out after a journey or after filling with gas and then work again once cool. I'd change it as matter of course, its a good starting point and at least you know it aint the problem once you do it.....mine deteriorated over about a 3 month period and at times worked fine.
The wire breaks around the headstock....wet connections is all fine but very hit and miss...just change the starter relay.

ta ra me ducks

Sean

That's as maybe... but my problem was deffo 100% broken wires in the loom, which you can see from the photos, and I just re-posted the link to the original thread for information TBH.

I established both my starter solenoid & motor were ok, by shorting the solenoid and starting the engine. Then traced the fault back using a multimeter to it's eventual location near the headstock (where other members have discovered breaks) and spliced a re-inforced repair in. The starter/ignition relays under the seat were never an issue with my fault, as the problem was in the 12volt feed between the starter button and solenoid.

Scotty
24-05-2005, 07:28 PM
umm broken wires an absolute pain in the ass but you can fix it yourself relativly cheaply

Fosse Foxfight
24-05-2005, 10:04 PM
That's as maybe... but my problem was deffo 100% broken wires in the loom, which you can see from the photos, and I just re-posted the link to the original thread for information TBH.

I established both my starter solenoid & motor were ok, by shorting the solenoid and starting the engine. Then traced the fault back using a multimeter to it's eventual location near the headstock (where other members have discovered breaks) and spliced a re-inforced repair in. The starter/ignition relays under the seat were never an issue with my fault, as the problem was in the 12volt feed between the starter button and solenoid.
Nah sorry Gary, I wasnt saying you were wrong, just that the problem as described did not point to broken wires, just the symptoms of a shagged starter relay. Also you're testing the starter solenoid....I was talking about the starter relay, doing the test you did would not prove or disprove a faulty relay. Also for those of you who have tried tracing a wire break you know its a long , frustrating and sometimes entirely pointless task. Im quite interested in this broken wire problem as described by some owners tho.....why is it breaking?.......is it chafing and wearing thru or is it a sh.it batch of wire or what?.....any first hand answers?

ta ra me ducks

Sean

Scotty
24-05-2005, 10:37 PM
oh i rememember the breaks in my wires,
umm its as if they have been streatchedand the inside core has snapped (hazey memory the insides looked a bit corroded no sure on that) but the outer caseing is unmarked all but impossible to see from the outside.

convinced its because of bad cable routeing causeing unneccacery cable stretch on full lock

Toolong
31-05-2005, 12:59 PM
thanks for all your replies, now back off holiday will try all of your suggestions. :)