running in M1000ie

[Marky]

cheers Nat, Charlotte and Doug for earlier reply.

Picking the bike up tomorrow morning (Sat). Dealer will tell me tomorrow I know but wot's the running in period and max revs?


Cheers!
Marky

[CK & AK]

Dealer recco is:
first 600 miles up to 5000 rpm (use hills etc too - not just a couple of circuits of M25 :lol: ) Then 1st service.

then from 600 to 1000 miles increasing revs to 7000.
The let it go :burnout:

Maybe then mostly run in by Sunday eh? Best to book the service now Marky! ;)

or do a Muttley & dont bother - just give it some :twisted:

[Spanner]

Well I sort of ran the engine in the proper way! By about four hundred miles I got bore and started to utilise more of what the engine had to offer!! There is a school of thought that says give it the berries straight away. Apparently the bike will be quicker. Not sure how this works but some people reckon it works. If I were you I would change the cans and sort the fuelling asap. It transforms the bike from a beauty to a beast! If you are interested in figures and all that then my bike has 100 bhp at the back wheel. I dare say CK and Muttleys bikes are similar. Except mine is faster because it is yellow! Oh and because I'm a five foot eight, nine stone motorcycle jockey! Thats enough waffle from me. I hope you enjoy your new toy.

Doug

[Ger_Tom]

I were you I would change the cans and sort the fuelling asap. It transforms the bike from a beauty to a beast! If you are interested in figures and all that then my bike has 100 bhp at the back wheel. I dare say CK and Muttleys bikes are similar.
That alone shall give it 100 bhp on the back wheel, so increase the power by 25%? No way...

The stock 94 bhp are on the clutch, not on the wheel. On the wheel it should have something like 85 bhp. If you have 90 bhp on the back wheel, that is already a very good value, I suppose.

[Marky]

5,000rpm? thanks Charlotte.

I normally run my bikes in by revving up to rec limit then shut off throttle, drop a gear or two then up to 5K again, repeat. I run for 20-30 mins then switch off and allow engine get cool for a couple of hours or so then run it again.

It's actually a 2004 model which has 84bhp as opposed to 2005 model that has 94bhp. Ducati have always quoted power at rear wheel unlike most manufacturers that quote power at crank.

[PaulS]

Not sure about your running in method but this is what it actually says in the manual for a 2004 M1000 -

"Up to 1000 km
During the first 1000 km, keep the revolution meter under control. The indicator must not exceed:5500-6000 rpm.
During the first hours of riding, it is advisable to run the engine at varying load and rpm, though still within recommended limit. To this end, roads with plenty of bends and even slightly hilly areas are ideal for a most efficient running-in of engine, brakes and suspensions. For the first 100 km, use the brakes gently. Do not brake violently or keep brake applied for too long. This will enable a correct break-in of friction material on brake pads against brake discs. For all mechanical parts of the motorcycle to adapt to one another and above all not to adversely affect the life of basic engine parts, it is advisable to avoid harsh accelerations and not to run the engine at high rpm for too long, especially uphill. Furthermore, the drive chain should be inspected
frequently. Lubricate it as required.

From 1000 to 2500 km
At this point, you can squeeze some more power out of your engine, being careful, however, to never exceed: 7500 rpm.

After 2500 km
After running-in, never exceed the following values during the motorcycle standard use: 9,000 rpm.
Strict observance of running-in recommendations will ensure longer engine life and reduce the likelihood of overhauls and tune-ups."

The manual is available here (http://www.ducati.com/bikes/service/manuals/2004.jhtml?family=manuals&modelName=2004) if you want to read it before you pick up the bike.

It is good advice and I would follow it. Occasionally exceeding the rpm limits will do no harm but the main thing is to have plenty of variation in engine speed and not to let the engine labour. As CK said, doing laps of the M25 to get it over with quickly is not a good idea. I had a new Z1000 many years ago and ran it in by doing mainly motorway miles - it ended up with glazed bores and terrible oil consumption.

As far as the power output is concerned I think you'll find the 2004 is actually the same as the 2005. Ducati are quoting higher figures for all 2005 Monsters as they have changed their measurement method to more align themselves with other manufacturers.

Hope you enjoy the bike and have many trouble free miles.

[Spanner]

I wouldn't lie to you about the power my friend. I have the results from the dyno run to prove it. I'm not that bothered about how much power the bike has anyway as long as it does what I want it to do.

I'm a sad git I know but I am really looking forward to hearing the sound of my bike again after being in Australia for so long. Their are too many Harley Davidsons here. It will be good to see and ride a proper bike again. In the mean time I will have to be satisfied with lying on the beach!

[Muttley]

or do a Muttley & dont bother - just give it some :twisted:

Oi......think of the resale value :eek: I did make sure that as it clicked from 999 to 1000 miles she was hitting the rev limiter, seemed only right ;)

Its well worth having the fueling set up properly once run in though. The 4 valve engines tend to run too rich from the factory so bunging on some cans and a free flowing filter wont matter too much.But the Thou's are set up weak as standard (1.5% co) which needs to be tweaked up to around 5%. You loose about twenty miles per tankfull, but trust me it's well worth it.

[TP-996]

5,000rpm? thanks Charlotte.

I normally run my bikes in by revving up to rec limit then shut off throttle, drop a gear or two then up to 5K again, repeat. I run for 20-30 mins then switch off and allow engine get cool for a couple of hours or so then run it again.

It's actually a 2004 model which has 84bhp as opposed to 2005 model that has 94bhp. Ducati have always quoted power at rear wheel unlike most manufacturers that quote power at crank.

My understanding is that the engines are the same but Ducati have started quoting dry weights and power at the crank for 2005, to bring them in line with the Japanese.

Fair move I reckon - stop confusing the jap bike riders.

[Marky]

Thanks TP, I didn't know Ducati had changed their quoted power figures for this year. That'll explain why Ducati were able to get 10bhp more on this year's M1000.

Sorry PaulS, I explained my running-in bit badly. All I meant to say was that I won't be sitting all day at 5,000rpm. I'll be using the gearbox plenty.

I'll be using hills and all that too. I think a lot of running-in is letting the engine get cold and then running it for 30 mins again.

Me mate Phil (GSX1400) has just turned up so off to pick up bike!


Cheers
Marky

[nambduke]

There's all sorts of words of wisdom re running in.....but I've used this method over the years and found that I manage to get strong bhp, low oil consumption and long life from all my engines - bikes (inc japs) and cars....

The big killer for all new engines is heat, load and constant speeds. Heat is a combination of fuel and how much air is feed into the engine and load is a basic function of how much throttle in the wrong gear. The basic premise here is; rpm is secondary (I'll explain at the end of the message), so you can rev a motor freely, but restrict the throttle position/opening and ensure you're in the right gear not to load the engine. In simplistic terms.....

First 100-250 miles, max 1/4 throttle position, right gear (don't labour), ignore rpm - i.e. 1/4 throttle, down hill, low load means cool engine! Vary road speed.
Next 250-500 miles, max 1/2 throttle position, right gear (don't labour), ignore rpm - i.e. 1/2 throttle, down hill, low load means cool engine again! Vary road speed.
Next 500-750 miles, max 3/4 throttle position, right gear (don't labour), ignore rpm - i.e. 3/4 throttle, down hill, low load means cool engine! Vary road speed.
Final 750-1000 miles, Intermitent full throttle openings, right gear for normal riding (i.e. some load), ignore rpm, full throttle downhill, motor should be releasing around 97% of attainable power for this engine. Final power release usually comes from individual dyno setup. Vary road speed.

Cranks run in very quickly, typically within 100-250 miles due to the type of bearing surface material and machining tolerances used in todays engines (white metal against crank material beds in almost straight away). Running in years ago was necessary due to poor (inferior) materials and 'agricultural' clearances. Todays motors are much better engineered. Cylinder bores can take time to bed in - typically 500-750 miles, but this again is dependant on the machining tolerances and honing used in todays motors. There's strong evidence that by using all of the rev range from day one actually makes a stronger (bhp) engine than one that is overly pampered.

Hope this reply helps......just remember, if the revs rise on little or no throttle when running down hill, the chances are your motor will be cooler and better for it.

Regards,
nambduke