A few questions from a new monster owner!!

[Blue Beastie]

Well, gone and done it. Got myself a 1996 M600. JUst have a few questions as I am totally new to Monsters and need some help.

Can anyone tell me what the triangle warning light is? It looks a bit like a hazard light thingy but it came on when I got home tonight after riding 60 miles home in the pissing rain, turned the bike off and then started it up again. I don't think the wee beast has been used much in the last couple of years. IT's only done 1,500 miles since its last service in 2001. Only done 8,900 in total. At the last service it got the usual air and oil filter. Also got new cam belt, valve clearances and carb balancing.

Also, it was back firing a bit (standard cans) when changing down gears :confused: Is this normal? It also takes ages to warm up.

Can anyone give me a rough idea as to what mileage I can expect out of the tank?

And finally, how the hell do you get the bugger into neutral!!!!!!

Any help/advice much appreciate. I love the look and feel of it and just want to make the most out of my new bike!!

Cheers

[Phoenix]

Red Triangle is the side stand down light. They can be temperamental.
I usually get 130 warning light to warning light.
Mine doesn't take long to warm up at all.
Mine doesn't backfire between gears but i don't have standard cans.
Neutral - that will come as you get used to bike.

[nik_the_brief]

Hi, welcome to the club, good choice of bike!

Triangle warning light thingy is telling you that your sidestand is down, mine flickers on and off as I go along - especially over the bumps.

Yep, they do take a while to warm up, if you search some of the old threads you'll find a number relating to how to warm her up and how long it's likely to take. If you're having starting problems it may be a good idea to have her serviced, especially valve clearances adjusted as that can have a dramatic effect on starting and ticking over.

Also if it's not been ridden for some time or you're not sure of the history - GET YOUR CAMBELTS CHANGED, they're cheap (about £20) and it's about 40 mins for your friendly Duc dealer to fit 'em if you're not going to do it yourself. It'll be very expensive if you don't and it decides to snap allowing your valves to get overfriendly with your pistons!

A good rummage through the old technical threads will be of great help to you as well. It certainly was invaluable as a source of information for me (and remains so).

Never be afraid to ask silly questions here though, I've asked loads and always received good advice without being told what an eejit I am.

[Phoenix]

Also NEVER trust your neutral light. They can be temperamental too. Always start with clutch pulled in.
Someone else will be along shortly to answer your backfire questions i'm sure.
Enjoy :)

[A Yerbury]

the neutral switch can get crud thrown at it and the early switches were very delicate pins, the never ones are bonded on and cost about a tenner, also the switch is recessed and can be a fiddle unless you have a box spanner or something that is bodgeable. a clean should sort the connection. There are some false neutrals in there so be firm with your foot. As for neutral it is a pig to get to from the clutch if you are in first or twoend, the pratt approach is to kill the ignition, then get neutral...but with time you will get used to using the engine braking and then finding neutral just as the bike stops moving.
Alex the sage.

[marchesini]

the key to finding neutral is .....

not to find it when you have already stopped. If you are stopping for a traffic light (or similar), then do not wait until you are at a complete standstill to knock it into neutral - do it before you have stopped. Obviously, not at 20 mph so you are coasting but a few metres before a standstill - it works, trust me (I'm a doctor).

Besides, they all do that sir. Good luck on the steady road to (financial) ruin - with cosmetic, spangly bits of course, not the 'oh, er, this feels a bit wobbly, boink kind of (financial) ruin. Which is, of course, completely different to the Athens kind (I digress but you get a lot of that round these here parts so I just thought I'd ease you in gently, oh er missus (in his best Frankie Howerd voice (who incidently never said relax, don't do it because he wasn't that type of chap - in a non-cowboy sense if you catch my drift)).

So just to recap, the best thing is to slip it in before you stop, yes that's what I meant to say. Good evening and goodnight.

Best regards

simon

[A Yerbury]

cor that simom blokes a bit mental eh?! he is correct of course as he has rather cunningly written down my previous post (sneakily using different words!!) and is yet again passing this knowledge off as his own.....

The weather and carb icing problems should be over for a few weeks untill winter starts so I wouldnt worry about that to much, the pops are characteristic and sound nicer through beefier cans although too much suggests a not 100% correct mixture or possibly a bit of a leak in the pipe connections, It is worth getting your hands a bit grubby and making sure it's all airtight and bristol fashion.

That's it for now as I have nothing further to acknowledge than my genius and ample poultry.

Alex ver1.01

[bod]

Don,t ever expect to find neutral when stoped.....you will play around knocking it up and down gears then find out the light have changed back to green again :)
As mentioned above knock it in just before you come to rest(or just hold the clutch in and hope nobody hits you from behind) :eek:

[Pedro]

Well Done! Good Choice!!

Things to do:-

Get the belts changed - as Nik said, for a few quid, this is peace of mind. While you're having that done, get it tuned up a little too. The back firing could be an over rich mixture or a leak in the exhaust system, either way, pretty simple to sort.

Might be worth having a butchers at the clutch too as a worn basket may make it difficult to find neutral.

Ped

[A Yerbury]

free (er) pipes and a few shotgun rounds into the airbox lid may help respiration, the early ones left the factory a bit rich as standard.

[gary tompkins]

Also if it's not been ridden for some time or you're not sure of the history - GET YOUR CAMBELTS CHANGED, they're cheap (about £20) and it's about 40 mins for your friendly Duc dealer to fit 'em if you're not going to do it yourself. It'll be very expensive if you don't and it decides to snap allowing your valves to get overfriendly with your pistons!

As Nik & Pedro said this is a must do ASAP! If as you say the last service and belt change was done in 2001, those belts could be well over 3 years old.

The every 2 years/12000mile rule on belts is there for a good reason. Several motors have gone bang when owners have neglected them, and the damage caused can pretty much write off a top end.

A full service/check over would also be a sound investment, as the bikes obviously been standing around unused for long periods.

[bod]

Yep at least get the belts done just because it has been stood dosen't mean the belts havent aged...probably worse than a motor that has had a bit of use.
If it has been stood the the tention would of been on one side of both belts in the same place.

[Blue Beastie]

:) Fantastic information guys. A lot of the bits I was worried about are normal so big relief. Will get the belts changed asap. Is that something I could do my self with a Haynes manual? I didn't realise they buggered up over time and not just with use. I don't have an owners manual so have just been trying to pick up info as I go along.

I've been looking at cans since I decided to get a monster and there seems to some good deals on DP ones on ebay (through spares shack) so may look into that.

Thanks again for all the help.

[stuartg]

I have some Microns on e-bay at the moment. Starting bid £50, no reserve if your interested
http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZstuart100867

[DesmoDog]

Hello and welcome, you really need the Haynes manual, even if its only to look at and think "bugger that! I think I'll pay someone to do it". Look frward to exchanging notes, mines a 97 600. Like alex says the neutral comes to those who wait. Enjoy the summer. Oh no, wait! You're in Scotland. I think your summer was last Tuesday.

[gary tompkins]

I agree with Desmo, the belt change can be a DIY job (I've swapped 3 sets so far) but it's not a job for the "mechanically challenged" TBH. Have a butchers at the Haynes or similar, there's also a few good websites with write ups on the procedure. If it still looks a bit OTT for you to tackle, then arrange to have a reputable dealer or independant Ducati trained mechanic to do the job for you. Belts are about £40 a set, and should take no more than 1 1/2 hours to change.

[Blue Beastie]

I've booked it into Alvins to get the belts changed.

They said a set of belts is £60 and that it is a 3 hour job!!??? That includes valve clearances too. Doh.

I think I'll just need to cough up because of urgency and the lack of Ducati dealers around Edinburgh/Fife :(

[Phoenix]

I paid £22 for a set of belts. Seems a bit steep if you ask me.
If necessary buy a set of belts from Ducati dealer and provide them to your workshop. :confused:

[scrumpster]

I got my Monster last October and could never find neutral, not even just before stopping, but I can now and even when she is stopped (after a fashion). My problem and a lot of other little problems I had, was due to warped clutch plates - the previous owner, was possibly a stunt rider :rolleyes: wheelies r us :cool:
Mine hates the cold, saying that she has been fine lately, especially with the new plugs fitted, NGK dpr8ea9.
First thing I had changed were the belts, even though she had only done 4k miles - peace of mind :) Good luck and happy riding!

[Mand]

I never have problem finding a neutral, maybe I should be more assertive with my foot? ;)

[brewhaha]

And always, always, always clean it after you have been out in the rain!

That Alvins quote sounds steep, come through to Ducati Glasgow or give them a phone at least on 0141 333 4998. See how their prices compare