cutting-out

[creepy]

hello everyone,just fixed a long standing problem i've had with my 94 m600 and thought i,d share the experience in case it helps someone else.i,ve had the bike 15 months and in that time it's had an intermittent problem,every now and then the starter was dead when you pressed the button and every time you slowed down from speed ie:traffic lights,roundabouts the engine would cut-out but immediately re-start. i tried everything: hotter plugs,fst,draining the tank(water present)checked the choke,relays,ht leads,wiring connections etc, then in july 04 i snapped a cambelt on the m25 at 65mph,i limped the 5 miles home on one cylinder, put it in the back garden and went back to my old bmw. six months later i decided too see how much damage had been done to the piston and was amazed too find it unmarked,the valves where jammed closed! i bought a s/hand head,some new belts and believe or not it started 1st go(had spun the motor with plugs out 1st) a new m.o.t and tax and ive put it back to work commuting, just too find the old problem even worse,this time however when it 'played-up' i found that the ignition modules were only getting 2volts as was the starter button,these share the same feed from the kill switch via a 2into1 wire(brown) if you disconnected the ignition modules the brown feed went up too 11volts, by now i was confused! i rang a dealer for advice thinking the modules were at fault,a very helpful person advised me too check the wiring from the kill/starter below the connector near the headlamp bracket and sure enough the brown 2into1 wire was broken 3cms down from the connector, because of the pvc sheathing stuff it was still making contact when the bars were straight but not when they were turned,i'm still unsure why a break at this point would affect the current to the ignition modules but when checked it did,with it all re-solidered up the ignition now gets 11volts(not 12v?).
bike is now running spot-on!
the chap at the dealers said this was very common on early models,keep it in mind if you're having similar problems!
creepy

[A Yerbury]

same bike same yr and Ive had my share of electrical woes, perhaps to be expected after 10 yrs and the early wiring is exposed a bit.....occasionally the kill switch wont turn on, turned out to be a bit grubby in there. todays fun started last night, no rear brake light..hmm do that on the morrow, ran out of gas as no low petrol light either thankfully 2 mins from station, refilled but wouldnot fire due to the old a bubble in the vacuum pump, blagged a screwdriver, bought some wd and sprayed that into the carbs (air box off, filter up etc)
nothing about to give up hope and out of sheer pissed offness and spite sprayed plenty of wd in there bang growl what a pretty picture. the tip there is that it works just dont be a girl with the wd, it need s quite a lot. looking under the saddle the low petrol conector (small clip box type) had come undone, nice design as it moves when the tank is raised?! clipped it back together and now the rear brake light works too. sometimes these roadside scenarios do work....I shall be copy / pasting your post for inevitable future reference creepy.

[DesmoDog]

Just got back from affixing Mr. Yerbury's ex side panels to my bike (I will have your bike, Alex! Bit, by bit muahahahahahaha) and read this. Could be the very problem I have been experiencing and it ties up with a simlar story recently told in this section. Cheers creepy. I shall be sat in the garage manyana with a maglight and a determined glare.

[creepy]

the thing is that i really coudn't believe how the wire had broken in the position it was in,not on a bend, not chaffing, protected by unmarked sheafing stuff,but the fact is that is was broken and judging by the dull wire it had been broken for along time,before the belt broke and after reading stuff on the web i convinced myself it was carb-icing,in truth i'm a bit unsure about electrics and just rode-around the problem hoping it would go away!
now the bikes fixed i'm enjoying riding it for the 1st time in my ownership.
if anyone does suspect this prob on their bike, start stripping the loom covering from the connector block downwards, i started looking in the loom at the point where the brown live goes 2 into 1 wrongly assuming it would be at this point(soldered) that would be the most likely place to have failed.saves messing up your loom tape/sheath stuff like i did!

[marchesini]

i rang a dealer for advice thinking the modules were at fault,a very helpful person advised me too check the wiring from the kill/starter below the connector near the headlamp bracket and sure enough the brown 2into1 wire was broken 3cms down from the connector, because of the pvc sheathing stuff it was still making contact when the bars were straight but not when they were turned,

I had an intermittent cutting out problem with my ex-M900. Couldm't work it out but seemed to happen quite a lot when the bars were turned at close to full lock. It was suggested to look at the same wire but I couldn't see any break in the pvc outer covering so was sceptical. Amazingly enough, after splitting the outer pvc covering, the brown wire was indeed split. Very strange considering that the no break was visible from the outside :confused: :confused:

simon

[A Yerbury]

Just got back from affixing Mr. Yerbury's ex side panels to my bike (I will have your bike, Alex! Bit, by bit muahahahahahaha) and read this. Could be the very problem I have been experiencing and it ties up with a simlar story recently told in this section. Cheers creepy. I shall be sat in the garage manyana with a maglight and a determined glare.

you will have my bike but by that time I will have upgraded everything to battlestar gallactica bwa haha. when the 900 lump and flatsides go in you will be first in line desmond.

[gary tompkins]

the thing is that i really coudn't believe how the wire had broken in the position it was in,not on a bend, not chaffing, protected by unmarked sheafing stuff,but the fact is that is was broken and judging by the dull wire it had been broken for along time,before the belt broke and after reading stuff on the web i convinced myself it was carb-icing,in truth i'm a bit unsure about electrics and just rode-around the problem hoping it would go away!
now the bikes fixed i'm enjoying riding it for the 1st time in my ownership.
if anyone does suspect this prob on their bike, start stripping the loom covering from the connector block downwards, i started looking in the loom at the point where the brown live goes 2 into 1 wrongly assuming it would be at this point(soldered) that would be the most likely place to have failed.saves messing up your loom tape/sheath stuff like i did!

creepy,
Had similar problem on mine last year which tuned out to be a broken wire in the loom. Mine was on the starter circuit on the feed to the solenoid from the button, and had been caused by the loom being zip tied too tightly at the headstock by the factory.

They seem to have a knack of badly routing wires and not building in enough slack where it matters, so after a few years of lock to lock you get problems.

BTW, Just noticed Dartford listed your location, are you up for a meet at the Oakdene in the morning - should be quite a few UKMOC locals there?

[Starter Sprag]

Cutting-out

I've just spent the afternoon 'fixing' the very same problem !

Only in my case, both the 2 into 1 brown, and the single blue/red wire had snapped, no visual external clues either.

This time I've incorporated a loop to give more movement, time will tell

[creepy]

sorry can't come today,my day has been booked already (diy).that said i very rarely ride my bike at weekends,don't know anyone else with a bike to go out on a run with,so maybe i'll be there at the next kent meet. creepy

[Albie]

Come along just for an hour

Gary T lives in Dartford

Your more than welcome :D