another tank thread

[stef]

because of a suspected leak around the hinge (the classic problem ?), I had my tank 'welded' over christmas. it went all smooth, with very little damage to the paint. the result looks really nice and solid. no more leak, garanteed !
I was really chuffed, as i didnt even need to touch the paint up (all the burned paint is way under the seat).
but then... when i tried to stick the tank back on the frame.. horror. the whole tank is twisted (not visible to the naked eye) and doesnt line up anymore. the right hand side has moved by half an inch. it looks like i need a new tank to me. so, here is my question:

there are some plastic tanks around, as well as metal ones. i am thinking about going for plastic because it will be lighter and should not leak around the hinge.
any reason why i shouldnt ? what are the drawbacks of the plastic tank ?
cheers.. oh, and if anyone has a non leaking, straight tank (even with damages) which they want rid of, please let me know.

[peteS4]

well i did say you had a leak way back but you seemed to think it was just the bolt..... sorry to hear it didnt go to well with the weld, now you can see why i wasnt happy with the price you were asking for the bike...... i wasnt trying to mess you about that night, i knew what i was talking about.... hope it all works out for you soon

[stef]

yep, you were right.
i realise that when changing all the seals in there, i still couldnt stop the leak. oh well, i should be able to get a tank of ebay for less than 50.

teaches me a lesson though... next time i weld a tank, i'll fill it with water.. should limit the damage and the twisting.
It was suggested to me to use a 'cold weld' (some sort of metal paste) but i wanted to overdo it, and really get a strong hinge..

my price was still cheap though ! :D
Even as it is now, i wouldnt sell it for less than what i was asking at the time.
it's all about how much it is worth to me and how much someone will be prepared to pay for it.. the two are not necessarily equal !
But i saw chappers got a dark anyway ! well done !

erm.. i have a twisted tank going cheap, if anyone has a frame bent to the left.. :D

[peteS4]

yeah she got a y reg with carbon cans for £1550.....pity me and her no longer together !!!!!!! sorry to hear about the tank twisting, but theres always a few on ebay......hers feels like it may need a new clutch before long so i'm hoping she'll still let me sort that for her as a mate.

[stef]

Sorry to hear about that Pete...sometimes things dont work out, you have to take it on the chin and live with it.
c'est la vie.

[A Yerbury]

obviously magneto tank bags won't work but most suppliers sell the straps, I got a yellow metal one from a breakers for 80 then a small dent fixed and all resprayed for 100. Ill keep an eye on ebay. sorry to hear that pete but nevermind, plenty more blah de blah..
Alex

[Richard_S]

you forgot the tibetan temptress in ur line up.Toys are nothing without a princess. Had another spot of luck on NYE, little irish nurse. If I had the skill Id make my own montage and line them all up, furry knickers and all.

[peteS4]

thanks for ya support yebury but if it wasnt for our diifferences we would be a perfect couple....... it took me 20 mmins to write this, i is a litte worst fo4r wear....... drink never was a friend of mine !!!!!!!!!

[dr.inker]

Hi everyone.
I am new to the forum and this is my first message. Newbie Monster owner as well...

How is a tank twisted, can you enlighten me please? I dropped my bike several months ago and got the tank repaired. Left rubber pad of the tank is now slightly off its place, it is not perfectly aligned with the frame. Is this something to be concerned?

Cheers

[A Yerbury]

there is a bit of adjustment on the rubber lugs (I think) the tank wont twist but the rather thin hinges might a bit. there is also a bit of adjustment where the hinge connects, 1/2 hour with allens keys should sort you out, failing that the frame is twisted and teh tank is fine. ignore the last bit.

[stef]

Thanks Al,
I saw those possible adjustement when i was trying to push it in the frame,
I ended up removing the 3 screws on the hinge (frame side), then the hinge alltogether, but nothing will do.. wont get in.
whatever i do, i have about an inch gap between the frame and the tank (looking from the side, in the rubber rest area) on the right hand side, and no gap on the left.
the last thing to try is pulling it back into shape with the car jack. but to be honest, i think it's lost.

[stef]

right,
I looked closely at the tank over the weekend, with the idea of using the car jack in mind (I dont have anything to loose with the tank as it is !)
i noticed some sort of bulging on the underside, which should'nt have been there, and this was obviously where the tank had bent. I grabbed a wooden hammer and smoothed it out.
surprise, the tank went back into shape. It now fits almost perfectly, i just need the press a bit harder when closing it, such that the rubber support are pressed in the frame. i can see a slight offset, around 3-4mm sideways, but i can live with that, and in fact, will probably manage to readjust it.

now for the second problem i am facing.. when i had the tank welded, i got rid of the remains of petrol by filling it with water. I knew at the time that it would probably rust the inside of the tank, but that wasnt really the concern of the day. I just had the tank filled with petrol again as soon as the welding was cool.

so now, i have a relatively straight tank, reenforced at the hinge, but it has a slight orange coat on the inside. the rust is only surface, but i wouldnt want it to penetrate.

does anyone know of a good treatment for this ? I thought of using a slight acid to get rid of it.. but i am no chemist.

second lesson from this: when welding a tank, dont fill it with water, fill it with oil !
In any case, i am happy !

[dazzi-b]

Hiya Stef
I've noticed my bike was leaking fuel slightly from the tank near the seat but didn't realise it was a common monster problem.
What is this cold weld stuff? Is it the same as the tank repair putty that comes in two parts that's mixed together?
I'm going to have to sort my tank out asap, I just thought the fuel filter was leaking :(

[slob]

http://www.net-biker.co.uk/acatalog/Petseal.html
this stuff is basically a fibreglass resin, You drain and remove your tank. Take off any caps'n'taps. Tape up the holes and slosh it about in the bottom to create a sort of epoxy tank within your tank.
Stef, you could try shaking some round lead shot(fishing weights) around in the tank to remove any rust and then rinse it out before treatment.

[stef]

cheers slob...
the rust hasnt penetrated. i'd say its more rusted water stuck on the metal.
i only need to treat to stop this from going through the metal.
I have been reading about the bolts/shot in the tank method, but i am afraid there isnt any rust to remove here. in fact, it probably just wipe off !

the cold weld stuff.. i though about it, but because of the stress on the hinge (which is what made it leak in the first place), i wouldnt recommend it. I dont know about the epoxy fix, but it sounds tricky to me ? isnt there a risk of blocking outlets ? overflows ?

I'd recommend the silver weld (the one i did), but i'd be very carefull on the not to bend the tank with heat, hence, i'd fill it with soem non-flamable liquid which will not contaminate the tank. old engine oil ?

[slob]

I haven't had a monnie tank apart but the outlet must be at the bottom and i'd have thought the breather was built into the cap. hence take off the tap, cap and fuel sensor if you have one(perhaps not on carb models).
I've bronze welded tanks before without deformation and no oil/water inside but you have to be CERTAIN all traces of fuel are gone to avoid blowing yourself up.
I'd head down my local car accessory shop and look for a rust inhibiting fuel additive.

[stef]

cheers. will do that.
on my monster (carbed 95m600) the overflow/breather is built in the tank, both come out at the base, not on the cap, like the newer ones.. at least that's what it looks like !